Week 5 -TOILE REVIEW

Week 5 is when our mid week critique/ toile review takes place. This is the first of the toile reviews. It is quite hard to get substantial work done by this point especially after Christmas but it's always extremely helpful.

As this is a tailoring unit, I decided to focus on my jacket for the toile review and decided to worry about the other two garments after I figured out how to perfect my jacket.

This was my technical drawing for my selected jacket design. The brand I picked is called "Aganovich" they are known for their tailored yet disfigured designs that pull a twist on timeless pieces. I wanted to make sure I aligned my design process to theirs and tried to design something that could be pictured under a diffusion line. I drafted up a double layered sleeve on the left and a cape sleeve on the right. The design consisted of 4 fronts which were all asymmetric.

At the time of the toile review, I wasn't quite done with the design. I had only sewn the front body to the back and worked out how I wanted my revers to sit on the body. The main concern was the fit as I wanted something on the bigger/ looser sider but the arm was quite tight especially with the double sleeve. I hadn't attached a hood onto the garment either. I was sampling hood shapes and fits but hadn't sewn them all together. I was also still figuring out pocket and vent placement on my design.

I was given feedback to sew the entire shell together and work on scale and proportion.

I was using the Ladies Jacket Block (Size 12) but I decided to use the Men's Shirt block to go ahead with my design. I also decided to pleat my sleeves. Originally I wanted to pleat the under sleeve on the left, but realised it wouldn't be worth the time and effort as the top sleeve would end up covering the actual pleats.